Sunday, June 27, 2004 :
Restaurant reviews from last week
Just to catch up on other dining experiences from last week for all you London restaurant buffs:
Went to the Criterion at Piccadilly Circus on the Sunday Times deal (some might say I never learn!). Great room, OK food, average to poor service. Couldn’t really say I recommend the place from what I have seen. But then again, I suspect that this deal is unlikely to be indicative of what happens when you pay the full whack. Which, as I said about Quo Vadis, is not really the idea of running a deal, but there it is… Being fair, from a reviewing perspective, I have to give the benefit of the doubt and say that the jury’s still out on the Marco–Pierre White places. But I certainly don’t feel particularly inspired to conduct further investigations into these restaurants at full expense, so the deal has, at that level, failed. Oh, they brought the wrong wine this time but fortunately I spotted it before they opened it so didn’t have to repeat the unpleasantness experienced at Quo Vadis. Incidentally, the waiter was totally unapologetic, and indeed, appeared irritated when I informed him politely (I have, admittedly arguably partisan, witnesses!) of the error.
Later in the week I went to Home, on Leonard Street in Shoreditch. This was nice. Much less formal, nice atmosphere, good service (of the friendly, informal style, rather than being technically flawless, which it wasn’t), food was fine, if not startling (I enjoyed the food more than what I ate at the Criterion). Not cheap (although still worked out only about a fiver a head more than the Criterion on the deal) but recommended.
Its no wonder that waiters treat you with contempt, with that sort of grammar.
In fact, I believe that the sentence with which you take issue is not actually technically grammatically incorrect, although it may be ambiguous... in that it implies that whatever was eaten at the Criterion may not have been food, which is unfair.
Also, while we're being pedantic bastards, when I said "average to poor" service, I originally meant that the service was mostly "average" and sometimes arguably deteriorated to "poor". As opposed to meaning that the service was "average, to poor people (presumably otherwise to rich people", although this interpretation might be equally apt.
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